Hello!
Compact Motorsport in New Zealand supplied them.
I haven’t fitted that large a brake setup yet.
I wanted to try the interim Copen upgrade first - and some Copen brakes etc came up for sale so I jumped on those.
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It’s been a while between updates…like I mentioned earlier I’ve been in Perth WA for most of 2020. But with travel opening back up, I’ve been in SA for a bit to prep the Sirion for an event on the 30th April! This time is at Mallala and I’ll be on track head-to-head with the Proton Satria GTi of the self proclaimed “Slow Car Challenge”. As a side note, the proton is currently a couple of seconds quicker around this track. Sadly the proton is now around 8 seconds quicker at Tailem Bend on the International Circuit. I feel the 1km straight of that circuit and the power difference is too great for the sirion. The proton is 20km/h up at the end of that straight in the speed traps…perhaps a small shot of NOS might close that gap? Thoughts for another day.
Since the car hadn’t been driven for a year there were a few things to attend to. Unfortunately, as per a separate thread, somehow in that time period the 3 bolts holding the gearbox mount bracket to the gearbox had all magically ‘disappeared’. The car was also driven like that by someone who should’ve known better. Sourcing a few different High Tensile bolts I managed to jack up the gearbox to align it, and thread the 3 bolts in. The upper most was quite difficult due to only being able to get a small rotation on the ratchet ring spanner. However, that issue was resolved easily enough.
Next up to try to regain some ground was in the braking area. So slightly later Copen rotors and calipers were obtained and installed. Relatively straight forward task here, and also one that was 100% needed as although there was brake pad material on the smaller sirion-sized setup, the pad material fell away from the backing plate as I removed the sirion calipers. No what i would’ve expected from Project Mu gear, but perhaps highlights how hot they got?
After that it is just a matter of fresh fluids.
Brakes bled and new Motul RBF600 put in.
Gearbox/Diff fluid changed.
Engine oil and filter dropped and replaced.
One point of concern - which I already figured was an issue due to the amount of oil it burns - is that looking into the cylinders from the spark plug holes, all cylinders do look like there is significant deposits on the piston tops. And Cyl#3 looks visibly ‘wet’, as did the spark plug on removal. I’ll try a few of the ‘backyard’ fixes for this, without much expectation. The engine is ~180k km old and with a very unknown history. The fact it has put up with several track days and a couple of dyno runs is a testament to what it can do in this state. I can only imagine what a fresh engine must be like.
So I can only feel this engine is towards the end of its life; what path to take?
*Refresh the K3VE2 with 3sz head and Rally2 cams?
*Upgrade to a full 3szve?
*K3VET is likely out of the question as would be too much of an advantage…
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I can relate with the oil thing as our daily is terrible with chewing oil and I go through between around 500-800ml a week depending on how much driving I have been doing. I really need to take it off the road for a fe days and do the atf/diesel or kerro trick in the cylinder’s but yet haven’t been bothered. I did notice than it did make a significant difference when I gave it an upper cylinder clean with a sea foam like product. Cant remember which I used to find it again though. I just remember it was from repco. I have seen in some k3 engine’s and they get really cruddy around the valves and in the head chamber’s.
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Prior to the track day I did try some Upper Cylinder Cleaner (foam type stuff) that did have in-cylinder as a method to use it, as well as spraying into the whole intake - lots of smoke resulted!
Also did kero in the cylinders overnight before and engine flush with more kero and then a good drain and fresh oil.
I’m not sure if there was any real benefit to be honest, looking down the spark plug gaps, it still looked pretty gunky!
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The track day at Mallala is now done and dusted. Last time I was out there in the Sirion was August 2019, where I managed a 1:34.1 - with a theoretical best of somewhere in the 1:32’s. At the time that put me ahead of the Proton GTi, however during 2020 the Gti put in an actual 1:32.xx lap - to re-claim the lead.
This track day also meant the two cars were on track, same day, same conditions - the head to head battle was set.
Quick updates of the modifications since last time:
- Factory Copen Brake Calipers and Disks with Dixcel Z-Type Pads
- New Yokohama Advan A052 (still 195/50R15)
- Weight Reduction
I knew this was going to be the best opportunity to see what it could do, so along with the rear seats and passenger seat, i removed: entire rear trim, rear seatbelt mechanisms, rear wiper and motor, some vibration dampner attached to the steering rack, rear section of exhaust (over the axle part) and incase the rear bumper was causing ‘drag’, i removed that at the track too.
During the first session which was nowhere near full attack, I had already managed a 1:33.xx and a new PB (though not faster than my theoretical best). It was a fairly warm day but the extra track temp appears to be helping others go quicker yet.
The Proton wasn’t running live-timing from the GPS unit, but I was. When we were on track together, following quite closely, it was evident the times would have to be pretty close as the gap over a whole lap was not changing much. However it was clear that both cars were playing to their strengths, with the 1.8L able to pull away from me on the straights, but the Sirion clawed back in the corners.
In the end, it came down to 2 hundreths of second between the two cars.
The Proton posting a 1:29.69
and the Sirion a 1:29.67!
This now puts us both in the same times as the 3rd slow car’s time of 1:29’s - the Series 1 RX7
The Red below is where the Sirion is faster, the Green the Proton - no real surprise.
The brighter yellow is the Proton, the darker yellow the Sirion - you can see if you relate it to the track map above (the track starts at the bolded timer marker) you can see the extra top end speed the Proton manages.
Incredibly impressed with the car once again - it still burns oil, still punches above its weight!
The driver of the Lancer (2 Litre) was their first time out and posted a 1:36.xx so, i’m sure it won’t be long before they’re battling us as well.
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Sound like some good results! Any ideas to get some more time out of it?
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It’s a great result, even today I had someone reach out wondering what work had been done on it as, they were doing 1:28’s in a WRX, so it keeps surprising people.
The theoretical best time from the data is a 1:29.0, so 6 tenths off where I’m at, therefore some better consistency from me and I should be able to go a bit faster. The question is; can it go any faster in the corners to make up for the lack of power, or is it at a point where more power is the most effective way to go faster.
Always lots of ideas, especially if time/money/effort is ignored 
Suspension:
Stiffer rear springs and shorter or adjustable rear shocks.
Shorter Copen front struts with camber tops
Longer front LCA for additional camber
Additional bracing (if needed?)
Braking:
Bigger brakes again, 262mm Honda discs with Wilwood calipers etc
Driver:
Fixed seat that is lower and also a harness to keep me in place
Body / Aero / Weight:
Carbon bonnet
Small amounts of sound deadening removed
Wider 15x7 rims, possible guard work / flares to make them fit
Power:
(minor) 3SZ head + Rally2 cam + aftermarket ecu tune
(medium) Small 20-35hp shot of nitrous
(large) 3SZ-VE swap
(major) K3-VET / K3-VE2+T / 3SZ-VE+T
Reliability:
New radiator
Oil cooler / PS cooler / Gear Oil cooler?
Temp/pressure Gauges for the above.
Realistically though, the intent of the ‘small car challenge’ isn’t to spend big bucks, but to have fun. So the fact the cars are close in lap times now is great, so any major change (especially in the power area) is just spending money to go faster. Having said that, the engine must be getting tired, so the 3sz head / cams and ecu and a rebuild with new rings etc is probably the most logical option without going crazy. The money will ensure the longevity of the engine and net some addition power and still keep within the intent of the low powered cars.
The next track day is 1st of October at Mallala (I’m not sure I’ll be bothered to compete at the Tailem Bend International Track, it’s too power-orientated and the Proton is already like 8-10 seconds ahead). I’m not sure what is realistic to have completed by then but likely the suspension changes are feasible.
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I would add another 2 things to the Suspension mods that Daihatsu and D-Sport do for their more track oriented Sirions. Those are solid mounting the K-Frame and solid LCA and front Swaybar bushes. Compact Motorsport sell a kit for the LCA and Swaybar bushes for $450nz https://www.compactmotorsport.com/product-page/lower-control-arm-bushing-upgrade
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Definitely good upgrades - I have most of the Siberian Bushing suite in the front and rear of the sirion. But they’re all still urethane-based. In hindsight I should’ve gone to whatever solid mounts that are available straight away.
What exactly is needed to solid mount the subframe? A lot of posts I read seem like people have lathed items to help with solid mounting which isn’t something I have access to (or skill for).
Lots of Photos now up here: Hyperdrive3d - Track Days, Window Tinting, Camera Systems, GPS Data Loggers…
They’re tagged by name, so from Page 8 to 20 you can see the Sirion in its resplendent green
Some favourites showing weight shift through the S’s and into T1 and on braking into T2. Also can see the point where I come off the brakes to tip it into T1! Using the LSD and power to pull myself through it from very early on.
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What brakes are you using currently? Maybe you really need the Wilwood brakes, but if you can find a Daihatsu with the 3SZ engine (Daihatsu Materia, Sirion 2 1.5) you should consider using those brakes. 254mm vented discs with a 54mm single piston. I’m going to throw them on my car once the 3SZ is in, and although they are waaaaaay too big for my use, they might be the right size for your car. Now, I know it’s not really track oriented (with just a single piston, for example), but I think they are a good upgrade from, for example, Copen brakes in terms of stopping power and fade-resistance, for reasonable money. The brakes come with a bigger master cylinder, so keep that in mind if you’re going to look for a set. A smaller master cylinder gives you better modulation (I believe @Mr_Gormsby mentioned something like that in his L200 thread), a bigger cylinder will require less pedal movement.
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This current setup is the Copen Caliper and Discs (246mm I believe) and Dixcel Z-Type Pads.
They were a marked improvement over the factory Sirion M101 GTVi brakes which I believe were 234ish and a smaller caliper? I didn’t realise the M300 Sirion’s had larger brakes again? but perhaps not in Australia given we didn’t get 1.5L Sirions. I’ll have a google around for the 254mm’s & 54mm piston calipers.
Based on the GPS data, I now outbrake the Proton Satria GTi (larger discs and two pot front calipers), both in terms of braking later and braking more positively (could be driver related though). Also based on the data it appears i can brake 30-40m later with this new setup…presumably going larger again will enable me to brake later and later (to a point).
Whatever size the stock M101 gtvi master cylinder is, the braking efficiency all happens towards the end of the pedal. I presume it’s a function of how this particular system works as it has always been like that. Could be the better modulation you mention. System was bled as best I can and didn’t appear to have air bubbles in it. Penrite RBF brake fluid too.
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Maybe they were sold on a different car/under a different name, so here are a few links in which you can find all the part numbers.
https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-japan/bb/QNC21/140450/chassis/4705
https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-japan/bb/QNC21/140450/chassis/4303
Stock 211mm Cuore brakes vs 254mm Materia brakes. Wheel spec: 6×15, offset 42. No clearance issue, it’s just rubbing the back plate which will have to come off anyway.
Note that this is just a testfit. I don’t see why it wouldn’t work when finally mounted (since that is basically what I did) but see if you can do a testfit yourself first. Second note: they are quite a bit heavier than the Copen brakes, which results in more unsprung/rotational mass. Though I wonder if the Civic brakes would be any lighter 
.
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Thanks for the links! Much appreciated.
We didn’t get the Materia or the 1.5L Sirions - but there are a few Toyota Bb’s. Also gives me a wider car range to search from online.
211 to 254 is huge!
I have similar sizes rims at the moment 15x6.5+34.
The 254mm rotors are also considerably thicker, which explains the weight.
However, I could likely get lighter ‘track’ rims which might go some way to balance out the extra brake weight.
I mean I’m happier with the braking now, but yeah, always trying to find improvements. The next target is an MX-5 who definitely has a better chassis / starting point.
Thanks again!
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Awesome Pics!
The Storia X4 sub frame was mounted directly to the chassis from the factory. @601to602 was able to get the parts needed to do so a few years ago. I believe it was a spacer, nut, stud and washer needed. From previous research I believe the part code for the spacer is 51228-97203-000 and for the stud 51296-97201-000. I am unsure about the rest of the parts, but @601to602 should know.
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Thanks for that; looks like you’re correct for the rear, with it being made up of:
51228-97203-000
48475-97202.000
51296-97201-000
Fronts made up of:
48475-97201-000
51228-97201-000 OR 51228-97202-000 (97202 looks like the metal one in the below image)
48475-97202.000
9004116442000
9004179261000
Some of the parts shown below:
Basing this off what i believe to be the X4 image:
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LOVE IT! Has it been fitted and tested?
Oh, that’s a picture off the internet - i’ve just put in a purchase from Amyama for the items.
Will report back for sure once it’s all done.
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Cool. Sorry, got a bit excited. It’s one of the things I wanted to do but never got a chance.
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Next Track Day is 29th of October out at Mallala again.
I’ve been finding it tough being in Perth, WA and trying to arrange parts etc to be sent into Adelaide.
I should have a new radiator there, which will be installed along with removing the ‘coolant’ loop to the throttle body.
Also, last time I had half finished trying to utilise the Fog Lights as brake ducts and the passenger headlight for a cold air feed to the intake (instead of the silver trim piece). So I’ll try to finish off that.
And the usual, piston clean, fresh engine oil / gearbox oil and brake fluid.
For a laugh i’ve also registered the Skoda Yeti that I have (1.2L 4cyl turbo, FWD), should be interesting to say the least!
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