as another thought for cheapest option -
-and if you’re not going fast anyway
-have you considered fitting L700 hubs and brakes and going down to a wide 12" wheel combo?
as another thought for cheapest option -
I have not !
Is this for Front, Rear or Both?
I would’ve through the L700 brakes would be even smaller than the GTVi’s - and they didn’t perform that well.
I’m really not that familiar yet with all the Daihatsu models.
Depends on how wide a 12" you’re talking - I’m undecided about any width increase through flares etc.
Just looked at the other thread - for improvement in gearing you’re saying not only change the Final Drive Ratio, but reduce the wheel diameter also. Then facilitate that with the L700 Hubs. With low power, wider 12" rubber the intent is to be off the brakes seems like an interesting concept!
you’ll need to forgive me - i consider things with the intent of what i can get out of it by spending the less possible
in doing so, i will often be accused of neglecting things that others may seem important, so you’ve been warned
secondly please excuse if i talk over the issue with what could sound like plain language - i like to address the obvious - this is not because i assume you or anyone is an idiot - only because i try to pad it out for discussion
so, yes, the brakes are smaller - so you can fit a smaller wheel - which will allow for effective higher ratio of total gearing - like changing the final drive - so yes, total pad size is a chunk less, so yes performance is less - how good do they need to be though? did i read you’re doing 100km -ish top speed?
i could double check on my wheels i have in storage - but i’m pretty sure the gtvi rear’s stock will handle a twelve inch rim without issue - not that rear brakes matter much anyway - nor does it matter much if you’re low speed and just running stock rears either- unless considering the rake angles - because you’re only concerned about drive ratio’s to the tarmac for now - at least to start as a test
in my opinion unless in the wet, all the braking interest is forward anyway - so i always dial out rear braking if anything anyway - but that’s a feel thing that’s personal - and for another topic
so the L700 cuore / mira will share all the components of the gtvi if you just swap the hubs and brakes
the lines swap over easily and the booster and master are fine - and the axles will fit etc easy
im not sure on the oz market - but there are a lot of aftermarket pad and disc options if you wanted to get into gruntier braking - but i would suggest oe would be fine - because you’re not doing massive speed anyway - and remember that with better drive ratio to increase time of speed to increase - it will also decrease time to decrease speed
width wise, i have been testing up to 7" wide and are fine without flares - which is another thing i think people get confused with - that traction is basically about contact patch - achieved by width - not diameter
explore this stuff a bit more and you’ll unlock some decent pace - always good fun
Not much action since last year. Have been enjoying the car on the street and in the hills.
About to have some time off work so trying to get some additional parts in.
- Myvi Rear Sway Bar 18mm
- Lowered Seat Mount for early Recaro’s (will use a mates L-series Recaro’s from the Proton GTI as a tester)
- Header-back exhaust - not only is mine still factory, but the rear section that goes over the rear axle fell off
Lower Final Drive/LSD/Bigger Brakes still in discusions…
Sweet looking exhaust. 2 inch? Nice work on the seat rails too.
Yep 2" / 50mm, then the little cannon has a 80mm exit.
Just need a bung for that O2 sensor hole as my model only has 1 sensor.
Although was thinking it could be useful spot to put a wideband O2 sensor hooked up to the gauge…
The current one is mere centimetres from one cylinder port exit, I’m lead to beleive it should be further downstream and likely after the cylinders have merged.
The seat rail is a bit of a gamble…we’ll see if it works!
The seat hight was one of my biggest gripes when taking my old sirion on track. I could never comfortably heel-toe or left foot brake. Would be such a big improvement to lower it.
If you need anything welded, feel free to contact me. I only charge for Argon.
Thanks! I greatly appreciate that.
At the moment, I’ve been doing my best to get “bolt-on” things so that I can do most of the work myself. Which was part of the intent of getting a car like this - for me to learn and have fun without much risk of things going wrong, or the risk offset by the car having inherently low value. So suspension/brakes/headers/exhaust/seat mount etc etc have all been simple bolt-on affairs. Whilst maybe a bit more expensive in some aspects, I get the enjoyment of doing it.
I’m sure there’ll come a time where I’ll run out of options and need some “proper” work done on it. Again, appreciate the offer
Went ahead and got some of the Siberian Bushings.
Main concern was the rear axle bushings that mount to the chassis - my concern is those bushings at nearly 2 decades old, with much grippier tyres on are moving too much which is impacting alignment of that axle with respect to the body of the car. Didn’t get the swaybar to chassis mounts and figured would get them locally through Superpro or the like and will try to add more mounting points as has been suggested.
Oh, I also forgot to post this at the time, but posting something to Facebook made me remember.
Our hire car in Mauritius over Christmas time!!
Couldn’t resist when travelling to a country that had Perodua’s not to hire one. Also turned out to be a stroke of genius as its small size and nimbleness meant heaps. Also to get the lazy auto working, it happily revved out most gears. It also kept us safe in some downpours and with all the crazy roundabouts there!
So I used the Easter break to install the Myvi 18mm rear swaybar. With the help of Nicolas (nvergaraa) I used a combo of vise grips (locking pliers), ratchet straps and a drill.
If anyone else is doing it, I highly recommend notching / elongating the original sway bar mounting points on the torsion bar slightly. It just will give you a little more scope to install it first time. Or the sway bar holes, whichever.
The mounts ( L shape brackets) match the bolt spacing perfectly - but when you flex the bar to install it the angle may not be 100% so the slight elongation gives you room.
Actually I only needed to do that on some of the mounts not all, if you’re concerned amount movement here.
Would’ve taken a lot quicker had I had some tools /knowledge. But all in all a success.
First impressions on the street, feels like it makes the torsion bar heavier as it crashes over bumps…which It sort of has to as you’re adding weight. Will need to go on a proper drive to determine the rest.
Thanks again to Nicolas for his quick assistance!!
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