G200 Circuit build

When I started this project. I did say I’d do a write up on the L2Dai forum. Keeping my word no matter how long it takes.

Now to the build…

In the closing of the 2018 race season, I started to evaluate wether moving forward with my L500, installing a roll cage and stepping up from the street class. I opted not to as it has sentimental value and felt my progress as a developing racer would have been limited by the car with the rare spare parts and the high amount of technical development I might had needed to move forward.
A friend of mine had a 2 door G200 with a 4efte transplant. I liked the car and looked to purchase it to replace my daily ride; which was written off. He hurt that engine and decided to scrap the project. He called me giving me preference for the rolling shell.
I didn’t hesitate to go get it. My aim was to build a full race car within 5 months…was (sigh)
I’ll start off by sharing some photos of how it was before I bought it, then when I bought it

Then I got on to getting the interior put seeing that this is going to be a full race car. The only factory interior part required is the dashboard, as it’s a requirement to participate in the IMPROVED PRODUCTION class.


I’ve created a vlog of this build on my YouTube channel. I’d like to encourage everyone to subscribe and have a look.

Next up was getting the car to my fabricator, whose shop was not far away (thankfully).
First order of business was to start seem welding and getting in the roll cage.
To treat the welded areas we used cold galvanized coating.


Next up was the roll cage. In episode 4 of my vlog you can get some of the technical details on how went about choosing pipes and cage design

Before any pipe was bent, copper tubing was used in the area to frame how the piping would need to be bent or cut.
For securing the cage piping to the floor of the car, we opted for the box design, we wouldn’t want the cage running through that floor.


I am susbscribed to your channel and been watching the charade build. I love how we get the extra pics here :smile:

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Fantastic. Gottbe one stiff sucker! Great work and great right up.

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Thanks much guys. Do remember I value all your input and feedback. I’m still learning and would love to learn more.

So Cory/Taz (my fabricator) went crazy with my roll cage. The minimum requirement at the door area is a “X” He opted for a ladder bar anti intrusion design. Notice the pipe bends out at an angle into the door. With this design the driver can be more comfortable getting in and out the car and less likely to be making contact with the roll cage by just being seated.

During the cage build I started thinking about engine choices. Let me share here my thought process on choosing an engine.

  1. Engine must be affordable and readily available.

  2. Good affordable aftermarket amd spare parts support for engine and gearbox.

  3. LSD must be easily attainable for gearbox

The options I had in mind were:
4age, 7age, B16, B18, K20/24, SR20vvl,4efte, D15/16.

First I was focusing on building a N.A. set up as the rules are more favourable for N.A where weight is concerned. Then I looked at what power each unit produced and how much I’d have to spend to get such power.
Now when I looked at what N.A people spent to get 20-30hp I was like…no no no, this is madness. I’m already used to a turbo charged set up and it can be reliable around track reliably

4age is my dream engine, I love the acoustics of it, however they are getting rare and are very expensive. Aftermarket support is limited and expensive.

B-series engines are available, but on the cost of the NA route I was not feeling it.

K20/24 is getting popular. Good aftermarket support. Goof power out from factory, but the cost price to locate the type R versions are high and the gearbox is not strong without going carbon internals. There is never a race meet in my region that a K-series box doesn’t get hurt at some time :anguished:. We were also concerned about how it would be mounted. Due to the design we might had end up with a really front heavy car just having to position that K to get clearances sorted.

Having chosen boost it was left to the 4Efte and the D15/16.
Now the 4efe is available and would just require a piston change. The prices were still a bit up there and could work with. A reliable engine and gearbox. Got hunting for a LSD and just missed out on one. So I went looking online. Prices were dazzling for whatever you could find.

That left the D15/16, which had aftermarket parts around like snacks on supermarket shelves. Engine and gearbox readily available at good prices. From observation on reading they are also pretty reliable being turbo charged, just rods and vitara pistons and boost away. So I went for it.



Not far away was an associate mechanic who had a customer that decided to go B-series. So we negotiated and I got a deal on a D15b, dual vtec with a S20 gearbox. So far I’ve come accross 3 versions of D series box, the S20, S40 and another which I’m yet to get a name for. The S20 being said to have the shortest ratio and S40 the longest. I’m yet to find final drive numbers.

Got Taz to work retrofitting the engine and gearbox. He got really creative with the mounts, especially the back mount.


With the engine and gearbox mounted, it was onto the first real hurdle of this build…the axles. The car has a honda gearbox with a Toyota hub set up and with this being a retrofit axle lengths would be affected. So onto custom axles. Thankfully I had some experience here from my L500.

Details of the axles can be seen in episode 7 of the build

We went about taking measurements. Starting with the inner CV installed we had the tape measure with 1/4" into the CV housing. This.copies the place the tripod is likely to be with the car jacked up. Now note that as the body of the car goes up d tripod draws outward the CV cup, as the car rides more to the ground it goes inward so u want to account for that travelling balance.
To get the complete length it’s easier to have the out CV installed and bolt it enough to ensure its all the way fitted in the hub, you don’t want to end up with an axle being too short.

After acquiring the lengths its was axle hunting. We were hoping to be able to respline the Honda/Toyota axles BUT the design as such was that the diameter of the axles is not consistent straight through. I’d really like to know why.
Searched through other piles of used axles and was unsuccessful. So that left to cut and weld axles, something I definitely didn’t want to do, but I want this car running. So we cut and welded toyota to honda axles.
AFTER having done that we found a donor axle and got those resplined for the build. So at least we have a spare which I hope we never use.