The gear shifter and gear box are in Wooki3, along with my modified sub frame and engine mount.
A pair of 10" and 12" steel wheels have been prettied up for the Wooki3. As I have changed to the 5 speed box I also updated the stud patter to 12mm from the 10mm studs on the pre 84 hubs. Until I can have my 10" mags modified to suit the larger stud.
Not much more to get it running for All Japan Day 2019, just fit an engine, finish the extractors, make a new exhaust (recycling some Tornado mufflers), buy some registration and a battery.
Once registration lapses again it will be time to start a 620cc engine tear down for the low comp set up.
I like it! when is All Japan Day?
In Adelaide it is 24th of February, not sure if I can finish it all and have it entered. Rego and a battery is over $300 by itself
With the engine and gearbox seated back in place, it feels like it is coming along. The new engine mount should be interesting.
Hurrah!! It runs!
When you put your car back together completely without finishing the paint job by accident.
I’m just lazy with not buying a caramel wheel for one removing the vinyls. Should paint the boot lid pink next.
Radio is working and has replaced the factory air vent, this can be reversed as I didn’t cut anything off the dash.
The glove box also received a small enhancement, it now has two supports which makes me feel better before using the rings and cup holders .
Fitted up the extractors tonight, which need a flex bellow, a merge cone and a flange to finish them off
Then like that the roof is sanded.
Next step will be remove the bumpers, blinkers, and tail lights again. Buy a caramel wheel and remove decals. Fit a new spool in the mig welder and repair rust patches, before rubbing it all down for more pink.
It doesn’t have to look great up close. I am going with the “20 footer” theory, as long as it looks good from 20 foot away it will be fine.
A wash, before grease and wax remover gives it a pre paint once over for the roof.
There is a good chance this will be on the road before the painting is finished, as insurance and fuel is considerably cheaper than the GTVi
Car is registered for three months and getting a new exhaust made tomorrow to suit the supercharged set up.
Plenty of room
Seems I have an electrical gremlin, when driving with the lights on it sends the temperature gauge to the “H” on the factory gauge.
In the style of me, I measured the temps with a laser temp gun and everything is in spec. So I am going to replace the factory sensor unit and place a triple gauge cluster in the place of the factory AM radio. Provisions so far of the three are boost and water temp, I am open to suggestions for gauge #3.
Oil temp is my preferred method of monitoring what is going on in the engine (though I have two temp gauges, one for what goes into the radiator and one for what comes out of the radiator, this way you can see the thermostat opening and closing for sure). Regardless of what the water temp is doing hitting 115deg C is time to back off for me. For oil pressure use just either the std dash light and a diff sensor/switch that comes on at a higher pressure, say 25psi, or add a second super bright light for the higher pressure sensor/switch and leave the dash low pressure light. Once the dash light with factory pressure sensor comes on in hard corners, braking or accelerating things are to late. I do like the low pressure light for oil changes so I can turn over with no spark and when the light goes out I know I am right to start the engine as it has had oil go through it. The higher pressure light will be on at idle, but should stay off with throttle. While a gauge is helpful to know what pressure you have, it is not something as easy to monitor as a big light that says “get off the throttle - NOW”. While the only car I have with one installed is the Mira, a voltmeter is essential in my opinion and I need to get one in each of my other cars. Here is why. I had one issue in my Datsun 1600 with webbers (non efi, not much current to run the engine) where the alternator overcharged and blew the battery apart (came up like a football and leaked its inside everywhere), and once in an efi car at night and I kept driving only slowly noticing the lights dimming. If I’d had a voltmeter I might have noticed and stopped in a town but ended up quite stranded since I had the car trailer on. So definitely a oil temp and a oil pressure light that goes on at a critical level rather than the factory light which could be a meagre 8 to 12 psi (someone educate me on the 2cyl oil pressure at idle).
There is already a “sort of” voltage gauge, there is a green light that indicated battery load.
Usually that is there as a resistor which is needed for the alternator to know what voltage to make (bad explanation).