Track Day GTVi - South Australia

Also using the time to complete a bit of a quality-of-life mod:


Also looking to get a second hand set of headlights, as wanting to perhaps retrofit a HID projector in there. I did that successfully to my old evo, so should be able to do it here. Should be even easier as these reflector bowls are huge!


great thread.
hows the exhaust sound? where abouts did you get it? looks like what im after is it d-sport?

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Hey, I’ve been off-work and not on my laptop much. In the Facebook group i’d posted this:

Which has intermittent info about it.

Exhaust is this one

Made by Brave:

It is for the Daihatsu Sirion/Storia / Toyota Duet - I don’t know how it would go fitting other models.


  • I could fit it myself
  • 2" 3-piece
  • off the shelf


  • Price
  • needed to source an M18 x 1.5 O2 Bung Plug as the later Storia’s had both pre and post cat O2 sensors. ($10 from a nearby Motorbike Exhaust shop)

About the price, it was a little cheaper than what it looks like now as it fluctuates vs JPY currency. Also, it is a large box - so if you’re getting bushes, rad caps, trinkets, or basically anything that can fit in and around an exhaust in a box - then you can consolidate freight, so it doesn’t seem as bad.

Fit and Finish; I can’t fault it, everything included, bolted fine to aftermarket exhaust header (Supersprint), very easy to get it centered in the rear bar.

Why no exhaust video clip? Well this exhaust would fit 100% perfectly on a stock car. The fact that i have the Myvi Rear Sway Bar (and the low height at the rear) causes this exhaust to foul on the sway bar mount. This is because the mount protrudes inside and backwards of the spring perch, which is where this exhaust runs. So nothing wrong with the product, if that sway bar wasn’t there it would be all good. Therefore at the moment I’m running without the final rear section of the exhaust.

So my options are:

  • Take the final piece to an exhaust shop to modify to fit
  • Take the car to an exhaust shop to get an entirely new section made up with or without a mini cannon muffler.

In other news, Siberian Bushes have just arrived - after a false start and one package getting stopped at the Russian border. Tracking shows this package is still in Korea, but it’s in my hands now so…

Additionally purchased some 54mm silicone tubings to make up an intake which should get some cold air and that doesn’t run across the top of the engine…


Good write up! hope you can get the back end sorted without too many hassles. I wonder if bending or bashing it sightly would have any adverse effect. It might even increase the velocity of the cooler exhaust gases? I could also be talking out my butt, and have no idea :stuck_out_tongue:

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Unfortunately the exhaust basically sits on the sway bar mount, which since the exhaust can move slightly on the hangers, the rear section shifts/slides to one side of the swaybar mount. This in turn causes the rear cannon to then rest on the rear bar.

I went for a quick drive but it just clunked all the time. Not sure a gentle massage with a mallet would do it…


Not much action to date, but will pick up soon.

  • Exhaust was corrected by an exhaust shop. Basically cut out a small section in the over-axle part to change the angles to suit. Still 2" mandrel SS.
  • Used some 3mm Aluminium strapping to install a fire extinguisher across front seat mounts - made more fun due to the different orientation of seat bolts.
  • Tried a different seat mount for the recaro, still was higher than expected so a custom job might be the go. Perhaps the GTVI’s came with slightly lower seating position, as the JDM Rails that were meant to be -30mm position was nowhere near it.

Larger mods to come as will get all amassed parts fitted next week by the same team that modified the exhaust: final drive, lighter pulley, new drive belt, bushings, radiator, etc

And this weekend I should be able to do the battery relocation (plan to horizontally mount a Fullriver HC20) and modify the intake (2 1/8" piping and silicon bends to place filter roughly where battery was and feed it cool air from somewhere from front bar)


Firstly, apologies there are no pictures for this track outing. It was on a weekday and a solo effort by myself.
I’ve also shared a post on Facebook to the Live to Dai page.

So we left off with the last track day at Mallala with a 1:36.9 as the fastest time.
Since then has been added:

  • Header back exhaust, 2" from BRAVE Japan (headers were already done and are SuperCircuit from Malaysia)
  • D-Sport Slotted Rotors (stock GTvi size)
  • Ultra Racing Rear Sway Bar
  • Rear Torsion bar, front control arm and front sway bar-to-control arm mount bushing from Siberian Bushing
  • Copen 5.545 Lower Drive from Compact Motorsport (and Daihatsu)
  • 1.5 LSD from D-Sport
  • New Gates drive belt and Lightweight crank pulley from Arospeed

The theory behind most of these should be straight forward and documented throughout the site. At Mallala specifically, due to the long gearing of the sirion, all I originally needed was 2nd and 3rd. The lower Final drive has brought 4th in to play on the track, with the acceleration out of 2nd quite astonishing for a small engine (aided by LSD too). I had concerns that this FD was toooo low - but at the end of the longest straight (realistically a kink) I was still in the top of 4th, so didn’t have to make a choice about a short upshift to 5th. Although through the esses I’m not sold on the quickest way through / which gear etc, something for next time.

Downside on the street (aka the drive to/from the track) is that at 110km/h the engine sits just above 4k rpm…so cruising at 90km/h was the ideal mix of keeping revs lowish, noise to a minimum and not angering the other road users.

Speaking of the LSD - given the modest power the cars have, I was surprised on the first track day that I was easily spinning up the inside front tyre. This could also be a factor of not enough wheel droop on the coilovers and/or too stiff a front spring rate. In any case, the LSD certainly solved it, with no wheel spin at all and the ability to pull the car through the corners. I also believe that the locking on decel helped braking.

Speaking of brakes - since they’re stock sized and the recommendation is to go to copen-sized at a minimum the first track day had them running out of puff early. The breaking immediately seemed better, which I don’t think was due to the rotors but the LSD. Though with Mallala being particularly harsh on brakes, the pedal was exceedingly long towards the end of the day.

The Exhaust, pulley, bushings I believe just added to supporting mods - extracting a bit of power, allowing it to rev freely and to feel as solid on the track as possible.

So, my previous best was 1:36.9 and the ‘challenge’ was to beat my friends Proton GTi whose time was 1:34.2 - so I had a bit of ground to make up. Well my actual best time of the day was 1:34.1 just surpassing the GTi. This was also a very consistent time, reaching low 1:34’s on numerous laps. However a bigger story is my theoretical best time pieced together from RaceChrono’s software. Which was a 1:32.9 which is significantly better again than the lap I could do. Having looked at the data RaceChrono does provide - in one sector alone on one lap I was 0.4s quicker. I do feel the area to improve on is the braking - not that the current brakes wouldn’t enable me to get to that lower figure - the variability in the brakes with such a large deadzone prior to braking I feel is where I can’t be consistent each time.

So where to from here?
Currently I’ve:

  • purchased a couple of extra fog lights, with the intent to turn them into brake ducts. If anyone is curious, the ‘hole’ at the back of the foglights is 2 1/8" which is the same size as the throttle body, so left over piping / silicone joins can be put to use.
  • purchased a ‘chrome’ trim of the passenger side to fashion into an air intake.
  • A Fullriver HC20 battery will be mounted under the passenger seat.
  • The fusebox has been rotated back 90deg to free up a space for
  • Air intake putting a pod filter in the factory battery location, fed air from the front of the car (can’t be any worse than the ‘engine cover intake’), engine bay side ideally blocked by some panel.
  • Exploring lighter front rims, with stickier tyres - waiting for a pair to pop up locally or the AUD:Yen to get better.
  • Braking…either the Copen upgrade or the Compact Motorsport large brake upgrade.
  • Stiffer Rear Springs

Prior to the trackday I did the usual maintenance: plugs, oils etc.
Interestingly, it seemed plug #3 (Counting from Left) was the ‘most oiled’ and likely the cause of the oil burn at high rpm…In any case at the track a large amount of oil was being burnt and therefore needed a few 100mls between sessions. But the 176k kms engine is holding together, I doubt it could be significantly down on power/compression and still create times to challenge its peers.

Next time out will be “The Bend” motorsport track in SA on the 18th August. This is a much larger track to challenge the Sirion.

***If anyone wants to compare the Racechrono data it can be found here:



Cyl #3 looks to be the primary culprit. Will try some of the internet mystery fixes of soaking the piston tops with a variety of solvents (Marvel Mystery Oil if you’re in the US, otherwise some kero/deisel here) to see if that helps at all. Otherwise i’ll tough it out until I do something about rebuilding it.

Fusebox Relocation:

Bracket was cut in half and re-bolted to the strut tower to orient the fuse box this way. A bit tight to the wiper motor…but another way to look at it is that it helps hold it in place :slight_smile:


Thanks for the informative post you have some good info from the day there and I really like the fact that you have put the race chrono app details up. It is one of the things I have found up here with the track days we have had that everyone that has just used race chrono or another app seems to get quicker times than they should in comparison to using the hired timer’s from the track. I’m not saying that some of the times may be legitimate by other’s that they have got but more inconsistent and usually lower.

Sounds like the lsd really worked well and it is probably something worth me hunting down in future when I get more serious as even the move was spinning inside wheel’s on the last track day at QR. I hope I have maybe solved a little bit of it by having more travel in the front than previous and having the front of the car slightly higher and softer springs than the rear. Only time will tell when I get back out there again.

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Not wanting to open a debate about timers :slight_smile:
But you’re right and the outright times don’t matter much compared to the “in-house” friendly comp we have going. For that we’ve standardised as much as possible, ie I used the exact same external gps unit for the timing as the Proton.

These GPS units were also in use at SA Time Attack and we’re within 0.1s of the tracks timing. So they can’t be too far off. Also they are higher hz than just using most mobile phone as the gps sensor.

But outright Time is only one good point. The speed vs time/distance plots are interesting that Racechrono can provide. Before this lastest round of mods, I was down 3-5km/h at every straight before braking to the Proton and 7-10km/h down on the shortest straight. Now I’m equal on long straights and a bit above on the short, which I attribute to gearing. The acceleration rate (steepness of curve) is also visually represented when exiting in 2nd before a shallower curve occurs for 3rd and 4th.

Putting power to ground was main reason for LSD, but dynamically I feel there are more benefits than just that. I wasn’t able to unsettle the rear as much into a couple of the turns and compared to other FWD cars. Firmly believe that is due to being able to nail the throttle and be pulled through. Having said that, the Proton driver went from Nanking ns2r to ar1’s at the front and said that eliminate wheel spin for him - though it didn’t immediately translate to better times on the track.

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3 seconds off your last lap times is awesome! regarding the esses. At QLD Raceway Sprint track I found with the shorter gearing in the Move sticking to a higher gear and trying to be smoother through them it was much quicker than trying to power out in a lower gear. What tyres are you currently running?

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Yeah I was very happy with the time! I wasn’t aware enough to match which gear-technique to which Laps, but I tried both: enter in 3rd (after braking from 4th) and flowing through it. And braking down to 2nd power out a bit, but then I need to change up mid-s. I was happy with the time, so next time it’s a spot to finesse. A lot of people have said “don’t change in the S” so will likely, as. You said, take it in 3rd, be smooth and focus on exit.

I’m running Kumho v720 - basically the successor to the popular KU36’s and basically their fast street tyre / track crossover. Still TW of 200 though so not a true track semi slick. Holds up fine I think, low weight of the car helps. About 30psi I was targeting. Which was about 24 front and 27 rear cold.


Looking forward to seeing this further develop. I was planning to cut holes on the ‘chrome’ parts on the front bumper of the facelift front end for either brake cooling or better cold air for the intake. Got the idea from the D-Sport race sirion:

Likewise, the D-Sport panels were the inspiration. The pre-FL has different shaped corner chrome bits, but the thinking is the same. I took the corner one off and it’s solid plastic bumper beneath it. So the dremel took care of that into a rectangle opening. Now I have to do the chrome trim and connect a hose to make sure it get to where the pod is. It’s a bit tight as there isn’t much room to go around some of the front support structure. Likely relocated the radiator overflow bottle or try and fettle the metalwork below and too the rear of the headlight. Get a bit more free flowing air with less bends.

Brake ducting will come from fog lights. With the front cover off the reflector bowl is a decent enough funnel. Just enlarged where the globe goes in the reflector bowl to match the rear opening in the housing. I’ll try 2.25” hosing and clamp it down to the 2.125” holes. That ducting will be more flexing than silicone joiners etc. probably spray it all black to be less obvious that the front cover is off - but likely to get a number of stone chips…we’ll see!


I’ve got a set of V720 as road tires. They are okay. They feel good but are not as sticky as the Nangkang NS2R I had before. I’ve also got some AR1 which I keep for race only.

I drive left foot braking and don’t bother with rev matching to change down for the purpose of braking. I would say I can get shorter stopping distances just focusing on the brakes, and then rev match while off the power in a corner to select the gear I need to pull out.

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It looks a little ghetto, due to a last minute decision to put a layer of closed cell foam under the square of carpet I removed and to “reinstall” it as a bit of a cushion barrier. 90% of time it will be hidden under seat anyhow and only visible when tracking it.

Anyway, it’s a FullRiver HC20 battery, relocated to under passenger seat. Being AGM it can be mounted horizontally. So the weight is now between axles and CoG is lower down, instead of in front of front axle and about a foot higher. Other benefit, as mentioned, is heaps of space for air intake setup.

I used a 120amp circuit breaker from jaycar. Wiring is just some existing 4G from a stereo install on my partners Evo. 4G wasn’t widely suggested and 2G recommended, but small car, short wiring lengths and my friends proton’s setup with 4G wiring is holding together. 1 x length to connect positive and 2 x lengths for earthing.

Also just used the aircon grommet location to get through firewall as this car didn’t have AC from factory.


Not complete, need some more hose clamps and a bracket to help prop it up (instead of the balanced spanner if you can spot it). But otherwise should be no worse than factory and hopefully better. 2.1/8 inch all the way. DNA motorbike filter with rubber end which was drilled to accomodate air intake temp sensor (just need to lengthen wires…)


On the 18th August I headed out in the Sirion to Tailem Bend Motorsport Park to take part in the Hyperdrive3D portion of a mixed event. This Track Day was shared between Hyperdrive, BMW Club and Porsche Club - with each group getting 4-5 Sessions over the day. The weather was not great, Sessions 1 and 3 were dry. My first few laps of Session 2 was dry before it was red flagged due to rain / wind. Session 4 after lunch was completely wet and I made the decision to not go out in Session 5. Tailem Bend has 4 different configurations - and we were on the International Circuit.

Tailem Bend - International Circuit is a much larger circuit than Mallala - complete with a kilometer long straight that I had concerns over the Sirions new lower final drive. My concerns were put to rest, at the end of the straight I was around 7k rpm in 4th and ~160km/h. It was a windy day, so a combination of the wind, lack of power and not the most aerodynamic vehicle, meant that I couldn’t go any faster - which had the benefit of not needing to shift into 5th.

I’ve not been on this track before, so its no surprise that I was getting to know the track. Sessions 1-3 saw a steadily lower time:

  • S1 2:53.19
  • S2 2:48.13
  • S3 2:45.54

As per last time with the GPS-based timing and RaceChrono, my theoretical best was a 2:43.50 based on the best individual sectors combined. So certainly a couple of extra seconds to be gained through consistency. One example is: the Turn 1,2,3 Complex - between my fastest actual and theoretical there are two distinct lines that can be seen (the track is very wide also).

On the theoretical best, I’ve clearly braked later and more positively reducing speed more - but then that has paid-off in higher speed through T2 and was not compromised in the tighter T3. So good info to be had from simple timing/GPS.

In Session 4 - we had a very wet session. I was enjoying finding the limits of grip in the wet as I’d never been on track when it was this wet. It did come unstuck at one point, with a spin at ~115km/h into a space with limited run off. Thankfully it stayed off the wall.

It is a long sweeping left hander, and the lap prior I could hold it flat through there. I don’t believe it was continuing to rain at the time, so approach the next lap the same - however past the apex the car snapped left very quickly. The opposite lock didn’t save it, but likely helped once the wheels bit into the grassed area as the car spun back around to the right.

Again, the benchmark time was the Protron Satria Gti - which i managed to best by 2 tenths in my Actual fastest lap. Again proving that the two cars & drivers are quite evenly matched. There were a few other cars out there with less experienced drivers (though more powerful cars) and as such the Sirion did itself proud against the competition:

  • Mazda 3 MPS - 2:42.8
  • Mazda RX8 - 2:47.4
  • Mazda SP20 - 2:43.0

Times / Racechrono Data can be found:


  • Intake worked ‘well’ / ‘fine’ as much as I could tell.
  • Second chrome trim was also cut and installed (bumper was also cut) to feed air from the front of the car to the pod filter. I believe this worked as there was a ‘dirty’ patch on the underside of the bonnet.
    -LSD and rest of the package worked well.

I’m really happy with where the car is at, there isn’t much more to do other than seat time. I think the Brakes and the rear suspension will still be the area’s of focus. Perhaps some lighter rims and proper Track Semi Slicks. But so far with the increased attention on oil changes and top ups the engine is holding together. I have a Dyno Day on the 5th October, so will be good to finally see how many kilowatts I’m actually playing with!

Extra Photos:

(Final intake with support brackets etc).


Glad the car is going well and looking forward to the Dyno results.

Professional Pictures: