Neon's g100

Thought I’d finally put up a thread for the old girl.



I had just picked it up off a Japanese backpacker (thanks yuta, hope I’ll see you in Japan one day and come visit you like you asked) from down south in w.a. I had cleaned it, binned the old steering wheel covered in gunk and changed the shifter to something more comfortable.
Carried out some major servicing, all the fluids, lights and tappet adjustment done.
Got sidetracked mid way and tried to fit some 15x8 with 0 offset

That’s a solid not happening.
Timing and drive belts, new leads, plugs and fuel filter and it was beginning to feel alot nicer to drive.
Removed the side black moulding, I didn’t like it. Heat gun and patience makes this a pretty easy job. Recommend a Polish afterwards too to rid of the leftover stains.

Got my white smol steering wheel and decided to fully strip the interior to clean carpets, remove dash and binned the heater core, fixed the heater box and replace the dash speakers with working ones

Pinstriped my taillights a few days later, I actually don’t mind it

Made a model of the rear boot to maybe fit a false floor into it one day to rid of some weight. Also decided to remove entire front to fix up some loose parts and fit a cheeky air horn.

Put some stickers on, repping the L2D front, back and on the dash, plus some anime stuff cause I’m a cretin. Found a massive crack in the manifold on attempted removal to reseal the sump. So I got a set of headers and got a full custom setup made, 1.75 pretty much straight through and blast pipes that hang outside the bumper. Now affectionately known as the shin f##ker. It was going to be a single hot dog, but after a test drive around the block and the TRG coming for me with shotguns I decided on more quiet. 3 total hotdogs now reside in the exhaust. Retains pops and crackles excellently and no resonance at speed, while being louder. (I’ll link the video if requested, but there’s a bit of explicit language going on)

Fitted some brand new indicator lenses and housings, painted the timing cover bright blue and swapped the top hat air filter for something a bit more cool/breathable

Now it’s sitting in the garage after moving house, begging for me to get my act together and sandblast the rims I have for it so I can bin the steelies, and the dizzy had been removed to replace the o-ring causing a nice oil leaks down the back of the engine. I haven’t driven it in probably 5 weeks and I’m hanging to drive it again real soon.
Next on the list will be some chasis bracing, replacing the door cards so they won’t cut my arms up when I rest them on it (hmu if local and have some good ones) some coil over inserts/sleeves, THE WHEEEELS, and eventually when number 2 decides it wants to stop dakking and the engines goes caput I’ll be removing and rebuilding with an amr300/500 supercharger to it. May need advice on this later as to what people do to make it not prematurely implode after adding some boost.
Sorry for the wall of text and images but this has been going on for 6-8 months. Smaller more regular updates to start now I’m back ontop of everything in my new house.
TLDR; ,did things, I’m still a piece of garbage.

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great write up man looking forward to more. I hate to be that guy but I think turbo is better than amr. That’s just me though as i can’t stand how loud they are tbh. You will need a better carb than the stock one. If you can find one from a cb61 then you should be good or if not maybe a weber or something different that is tuneable.

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Thanks man!
Yeah if I didn’t have to go out and replace the headers already and have an exhaust made up, I might’ve gone the turbo route. Also looking to keep it a bit cleaner in terms of engine bay, plus I don’t mind the noise, my daily is fairly quiet and this is meant to be a bit more silly than that :smile:
As for carbs will probably go down the k-series corolla adaptor plate and maybe a small Holley or Weber seems to be the way to go me thinks. I’m still new to old school engines and boosting so I’d like to get some more knowledge behind me first hopefully before that time comes. Too used to new school stuff working at a dealer ship…

Always happy to see another G100, I’ve done almost that exact same “top hat air filter” swap.

Not sure if it’s was my imagination (it could have just been the induction noise :wink: ), but the top end seemed better because of it too. Esp. under load.

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You’re not wrong, it does seem to help, even if it’s just the placebo effect of the vacuum cleaner under the bonnet :wink: did this under your recommendation as well back in my welcome post a while back, so thanks for that!

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Smol update. After going to 4 different auto stores I finally found a dizzy o-ring that fits (Woot) and haven’t started the car in about a month after moving house, and needed to sort out the prominent oil leaks. After a little fucking around with the dizzy after not marking anything… Lesson learnt.
Gave it a good run, so happy to be back in it after so long, the falcon was getting boring.

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Sold my falcon bought a vs commo ute for ute things. What have I become.
Didn’t drive the chard for ages
Got sad, drive it again and feelsgoodman.jpg
Decided to replace seatbelt cause freyed and the buckle stopped working one morning , so I had to sit on it for the drive to work and back, oops :slight_smile:
Here’s a guide to replacing a seatbelt with a new generic style one if anyone’s interested. Not an eBay special but a correctly approved one from covs. (It already has no airbags or traction control or abs so maximum faith is put into seatbelt to not die)
1.remove old one, jam something in the retractor with the seatbelt all the way out, makes it easier for later.


2. Remove stalk, line them up side by side to make sure they’re close enough to the same length
3. Take a gander at the mounting plate, cut the supplied mounting plate bracket to size and compare with the new one, should look almost identical in size
4. Bolt that plate sucker up to the retractor using the correct torque specs and all new hardware in box, and mount her up to the car. Again following correct torque specs.
Snug
5. Fit new stalk, torque.
Fit the bottom belt mount, I had to ditch the big sliding type mount for the new one, as I don’t want to attempt to cut the bottom belt mount out as of yet to be able to fit it to the original sliding mount. I wouldn’t recommend cutting the mount either, but as long as you don’t damage the belt I don’t see any harm. (Long term still haven’t cut it, it sucks cause the seatbelt keeps getting stuck sometimes because of the angle it’s at, being a 3 door the belt sits further back and being a tall large man I go to lean forward and it gives me a no sometimes)
6. Be happy you have a new seatbelt.

Still need to do wheels, run out of money and time, so I’m gonna paint the original steelies and centre caps and throw some chrome rangs on it.
On a side note, I haven’t come across any but how hard are the wheel nut covers to find? I have almost all of them but they’re brittle af, came with the stock wheel nuts, they’re weird as. Kinda like me.
Also fitted a much straighter bonnet, has some surface rust and discolouration, looks more like a bucket with a straight bonnet now for some reason :thinking: might do it black when I paint the bumpers satin black? Thoughts?
Unrelated note might get a turbo cb60 from a g11 to build up if I can scrounge the cash and a place to store the other car. Unless anyone in WA wants a g11 without an engine and maybe box…
It’ll get there one day maybe

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Purchased a g11 turbo in a thousand parts, keeping the engine setup and gearbox. Picked up the carby tonight and the car was collected over the weekend

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