yeh sure I will grab them @Mokeman. pm me or catch me on FB
Oh my i’m behind on my thread. i can’t even remember what i’ve done since last update.
Little tidy has been a good girl and working for me so i’ve been treating her.
I got my hands on a trxx dash cluster with the help of a friend.
I discovered that L500 ef/el dash loom plugs are a direct plug in for the L2 trxx cluster only needing a repin.
I’ve swapped out my old speco rpm gauge for a autometer volt gauge that will be soon replaced with a electronic oil pressure gauge.
Installed a G11 steering wheel that suits the build so far and looks great.
Little things i can’t remember but will update if i do remember
So like anything daihatsu related we have to either design and make or mod something to fit. My top wing had no brake light so i had to make something up to put in that ugly space. This is what i came up with, it was made from a flat sheet of plastic i used cardboard as the template and make the rough shape i wanted… it might look simple but it has a slight bend in length and depth so i had to use a heat gun to get the shape correct. I think it turned out okay.
Okay so it’s been awhile and for a reason. Nothing has happened to poor tidy but today i had some motivation and mocked up the turbos cooling system.
As you can see there is something missing on the front of the turbo. The turbo was from an EF-DET so the cooling pipe wasn’t a direct fit and that is why i have delayed installing it.
With some Nail biting moments bending the pipe into shape i managed to snake it behind the dump pipe and next to the factory water neck.
So since it was a very sharp bend to the joins i thought id use some hard line From something you see see later on but as you can see it works perfect.
So now there is that hardline from above. It’s a hardline for an L500 fuel feed but just happens to be perfect as you will see in a second.
Looks almost factory made for that don’t you think? a small amount of bending made it fit perfect. It even lined right up to mount it on the bonnet latch bolt.
So with that being done, Next one the list is a slim Radiator fan on the front to save space in the bay.
Until next update, Stay classy!
nice work than mate
So today i started a swap from grey to black interior in tidy. Being a handivan makes it a challenge. As you can see from the photos below the grey just didnt suit it.
So now i start the big change.
All seems simple enough doesn’t it.
So i swap everything in the front. including changing seatbelts to black and handbrake and seatbelt clips to black and kick panels etc. The black door cards are much wider and needed the door to be drilled for the little clips to fit in.
The back is a different story. the plastic parts go in fine but there is no threads for any of the mounts and no mounts for the seats them self.
These are the rear seat mounts. i will be drilling out the spot welds and welding them into tidy in the same spot. thats simple enough but the end part isn’t look at these photos.
As you can see the rear piller where the seatbelt would normally bolt to doesn’t even have a hole. Now my plan is to weld a washer or abit of metal onto the piller to make a strong point point and drill a hole then insert a rivnut. If you have a better way or an idea of another way please let me know.
That is all for today, i will tackle the rest over the weekend.
So a big step for tidy today. She got a 4x100 hub swap allowing me to run bigger wheels and more of a choice.
Next step is lows
So its getting hardcore now! the bodywork is starting!!!
I couldnt find myself a s1 trxx front bumper local and was going to cost about $500 AUD to get one
into australia so i decided to design my own, as you can see in the photo below that is what it looked like before i started everything. the bottom part is a l200 rear bumper flipped upside down and trimmed to rough size.
Next i measured to size and cut in in the middle because the bar was to wide to fit snug on the ends.
I drilled holes and held it with zipties.
Then i filled up the gap with expanding foam to help bond the two parts together
Now the foam is dry i went ahead and removed the zip ties holding the two parts together
and got the 38grit sand paper and gave the edges a good sand and roughen up the surfaces for the fiber glass mat to have a better chance to bond to.
I put down layers of fiberglass and a few extra in the middle on the join
I then filled the top body line and the bottom hole on the grille
While i had the energy i filled the gap between the bottom half and factory bumper to make it look like one and not an add on
I have yet to sand it down and finish it off but this is where i am at now.
ALOT OF SANDING!
Looking awesome! Wish I had the time and know-how to do something like this on the Move.
So after hours of sanding it’s somewhat finished. not 100% happy with it but i can always
go back and do the finer details.
Makes the front look angry.
I had 4x100 redrills on the rear of tidy but as we all know the 66.1mm center makes finding normal wheels a pain!
So I gathered some Sirion GTVI rear brake setup with handbrake cable from a friendly forum member and i was amazed at how easy everything is. For anyone who wishes to do this swap you will be happy to know it is a simple bolt on job.
Here are some photos of the handbrake cable all mounted up with new P clamps
Here is a short video showing the handbrake works as normal.
Rear GTVI drums bolt right on so as not to have to redrill and give the correct centre diameter location for most 100pcd. Otherwise an easy fix if you have a lathe. Use the Sirion rear wheel cylinders too for more rear bias (no need to upgrade the master cylinder).
Yes you’re correct. I used the whole rear brake setup… for how easy it is it’s worth it over the redrilled mira drums, the size is abit bigger also…
Sorry, my mistake - my reread gets it now. Yep you did the whole swap over to replace the redrills.
Body work is well and truly happening. Both front fenders had damage so i banged it out and skimmed them and smoothed out like new.
Relocated fender blinker location “i’m yet to fill old holes”
Bonnet was bent and dents on passenger side, in the photo is the 1st skim of fiberglass filler sanded down and covered in primer for overnight to keep the rust away.
Lots of work left.
after front end being finished i’ll move onto the roof that is very damaged and will take alot of work.
What no! This thing is soo cool, hopefully it went to an owner just as commited as you! Dope build though bro rate it highly
Thanks. i had to stop sadly my daily is slowly coming along, but no build thread yet. will do a dump of photos later this year when i’m finished