So finally pulling the finger out of my arse and starting to remove the sirion motor from the donor car, but am stuck getting the last gearbox bolt that is behind the rear engine mount, there’s a hole for it but it’s offset, anyone know how I can remove it?
Your lucky you even have a hole to try to get to it. Many dont even have that. You may have to take the engine mount off to get to it.
Thanks for your help aye @evilhighway that did the job, 2 months later haha
Slowly getting back to the build and have started on my wiring. Has anyone successfully installed a series 2 ecu into the L2 with the immobiliser?
I’m at the stage of pulling the wiring apart and trying to trace all the immobiliser wires but they branch off and head off to other areas of the loom.
This is the birds nest that I am dealing with now
Think I need to find me a series 1 ecu, would seem to make the whole job a lot easier.
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Well I’ve learnt that it’s a lot of work trying to get a immobilised ecu to work, all the wires run off everywhere in the loom and it’s too much of a head fuck to figure out. I’ve found a late model series one ecu which should NOT be immobilised… So fingers crossed.
I’ve replaced the water pump, rocker cover gasket, spark plug seals and timing belt and am now just cleaning the motor of some surface rust with a brush anyone know if this is safe to leave?
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Pretty normal.
Thanks @Mr_Gormsby! Thought it may cause issues later on, but good to know
I have parts of the engine manual, but I can’t see where in the manual it tells me how to change that big seal in my last pic, does anyone know if it is a flywheel or crank seal?
Crank seal is the round brown one. Can be pryed out with a screw driver. New one best put in with a round object slightly smaller in Id and od and protruding past the crank end. Think big socket to tap the seal. I use rubber grease on the id and a light smear of three bond oil proof gasket sealant on the od. My first dai had this seal totally fail on the drive home from purchase due to woeful installation
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Do you have the key with the immobilizer? its pretty easy. mainly just 1 signal wire.
Thanks @Mr_Gormsby I’ll try and find something that will fit between the ID and OD of the seal, I don’t think I have a socket that big for it but will make sure it’s installed correctly.
@Luke don’t think it’s that easy as a simple signal wire, I’ll get a photo of the loom as it branches off everywhere, I’m not sure if there’s multiple signals that the immobiliser module and the ecu need to see before starting. Would be easier to just wire in a non immobilised ecu which I think I have now, was taken out of a late 01 sirion.
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@luke has recently wired in an immobiliser ecu so I would say he is pretty familiar with it currently.
@evilhighway, Luke is more smarter than me, I looked at the loom and where it all branched off and said fuck it. Looked way too hard, I didn’t have a wiring diagram and not sure if that would have helped but I remember someone on here and the FB page had problems with the immobilised ecu, I’ve got key, sender, immobiliser module and the ecu. I guess it could have been done if I had made a better attempt
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yeh when you look at all the spaghetti wiring it can all be overwhelming. I wired an efel ecu and loom into my move and that was even a bit scary and ended up with an issue where my temp sensor’s dont read properly and ended up making a new wiring system for that and my radiator fan.
I know that it should be in forsale section also but where abouts is your location for the engine and gearbox? there is a mira advertised forsale on the fb group with a broken auto in Brisbane and also a guy looking for a daimatic 2 speed auto for a cb engine not sure if it would fit but it may be a good option for the guy.
Thanks evilhighway, I’ll chuck it up on FB and the for sale area.
I’ve made a little progress and have cleaned up the engine bay.
Before
After
I’m converting the L2 to manual and will try and document it all with some pictures.
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If you were to do anything really serious with brakes now is the time to think about brake lines. They are a diagonal split from the master cylinder. Last time I had my engine out I changed them so that the front operate together from the same chamber on the master cylinder and ditto for the rear. I actually changed the rear to a single line and that made it easy to put in an adjustable bias valve.
I think that might be out of my capacity. I was planning to do the 4*100 upgrade from the sirion with the LCA, hubs and brakes and that’s something that I can do, but am having trouble finding a jackshaft. They’re so hard to find and there was one on the fb group but I missed it by about a week, it was so cheap too.
With your upgrade, did you go with hard lines?
I didn’t take the brake booster or master cylinder from the sirion wreck, cause I thought the stock one was sufficient. Majority of the driving will be around town and eventually I want to teach my kids to drive in it and pass it on to them, do you still think it’s worth the upgrade?
the mounting plate from auto to manual is different.
Has anyone done the conversion before? I read up that you would need to drill a hole for the clutch cable and that’s it .
The mounting area/plate that holds it together doesn’t look that strong to cut and drill.
Auto and manual gear shifter
Mounting hole/plate
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I had same issue with move I cut and used really big washer’s from memory but it was a long time ago I just had a smallgap at the front where the hole is rounded but from memory the 2 rear bolt holes line up.