Ok so today I bought another gtvi.
This one is an 02 model with immobilizer.
It was only $200 so I couldn’t say no.
The guy even put a new motor in it because he thought the motor was the issue.
The issue I’m having is when I bought it the original key is snapped in the ignition. He has lost the key backing with that cheap. He doesn’t have it running because of this apparently. You can turn it over with a screwdriver because the key is stuck in the lock but obviously no cheap so immobiliser is activated
Is there a way to bypass the immobiliser? I’m using this motor in a Mira anyway so would prob have to bypass it for that.
Iv searched and can find out that it is possible but couldn’t find a description on how to do it.
Thanks in advance
If it helps it’s an 02 with k3 ve2 motor says on tag.
I should have taken pix of the immobilizer.
I’m also sure this is the problem as when I bought it the dash panel underneath was pulled off and immobiliser was hanging from underneath. He said he had a friend look at it and couldn’t find the problem. I am sure this is the issue.
Has compression. Has fuel. Has no spark. Even with new set of coil is no spark.
I got some coils from him as well because he tried new coils to get spark so I think he has tried a lot of things besides immobiliser
Info on how the ECU, immobiliser and keys work for the k3s:
https://manuals.co/workshop/daihatsu/terios/daihatsu-terios-workshop-manual/5525646/188
As you can see if you have a master key and can reset the immobiliser memory the next master key used will become the one that the immobiliser will recognise.
I didn’t get any master keys 
Only a hyundai key cut down.
There is no chip at all
That is still handy though. Thanks for that.
trying to understand how the immobiliser works is futile, all you need to do it bridge the non-immob with the immob pin at the ECU which is pins XU4 and XU7
wiring diagrams can be found here https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1I_oBtD6y39RXFHWGNoTl9rSGM
you need to scroll past the EJ diagrams to get to the K3 stuff. the pinouts of each plug are shown above their respective diagram
pages HW-12 and HW-13 are the ones you’re after
also, the wire you’re looking for is black with a white stripe (denoted by B-W) on the diagram
Mate much appreciated.
Can’t thank you enough. Saved me hrs of mucking around.
I’d just like to shout out a huge THANK YOU aswell.
what problems are you having with the storia ECU? I don’t have a pinout for the JC-DET engine loom but I’m sure it wouldnt’ be too difficult to get hold of…
Wow that’s awesome.
Have you tried this?
Calling on any member who attempts this to create a wiki page please!
yes this is how I setup my friends sirion with manual K3-VET conversion and my own L7 VET
Imported a Storia touring ecu due to the k3ve2 engines over in Japan tuned for 81kw vs 74kw for aud. was going to put it in my Sirion before my engine went bang. Now Mick is getting it and going to put it in his awd conversion. The way I knew about was using the DS-21 diagnosis tool to reset both ecu and immobiliser rolling code and then the next master key you use will become the key that is programmed key.
Please do a wiki post with photos if you have time
See if anyone has a problem with my instruction first 
Right sorry I thought when you said Storia you meant X4… just a thing my brain does from the Storia my dad had years ago… everything k3 is sirion here basically. So yes this mod certainly applies to you. The difference between the high rated ve2 is far more than ecu you realise though right?
It was using a ve2 ecu from japan for an aussie delivered ve2, but, now mick will be using it for a euro delivered ve2. The JDM ve2 is higher rated due to being tuned for 98-100ron vs 95ron here in Aus and in Europe.
Ahh cool got ya that makes sense
I had a quick look today and there seems to be no pin on XU4, only XU7. That’s right? (On the plug I’m talking. The ecu has all pins)
Should I just make a pin for it?
Also do I still need the immobilizer wiring after this?
I’d love to simplify the loom for the conversion.
Has this been confirmed yet?
XU4 is the non-immobiliser pin so you should be able to just unpin the connector from XU7 and repin it into the XU4 plug to bypass the immob. they can be a total sodd to unpin from the connector body so I have only ever just fitted a new pin into XU4 and spliced this wire into the wire coming from XU7… either way should work all the same